The seat has to fit you, but the tree has to fit your horse. The tree is the frame the whole saddle is built on, and its bars are what actually sit on your horse’s back. A tree that doesn’t fit can cause sore backs, white hairs, a sour attitude and even lameness, no matter how good the leather on top is.
What the tree does
A saddle tree spreads the rider’s weight across the horse’s back through two bars that run along either side of the spine. When the bars match the shape of the horse’s back, pressure is spread evenly. When they don’t, it gets concentrated in a few spots.
Our trees
JC Martin trees are custom made exclusively for our saddles. We build on two kinds:
- Handmade rawhide-bound hardwood trees, in either Semi Quarter Horse Bars (SQHB) or Full Quarter Horse Bars (FQHB).
- Composite lightweight trees, our Light and Ultra-Light Orthopedic «Assist» trees, for riders who want a wade saddle without the weight. You can read more about them on our Assist Trees page.
Semi Quarter Horse Bars (SQHB)
Our SQHB trees have a 90-degree bar angle and come with 6″, 6 1/2″ or 6 3/4″ gullets. Semi bars generally suit horses with more defined withers and a narrower build through the shoulders, like many ranch horses, Thoroughbred crosses and trimmer Quarter Horses.
Full Quarter Horse Bars (FQHB)
Our FQHB trees have a 93-degree bar angle and come with 6 3/4″, 7″, 7 1/2″ or 8″ gullets. Full bars generally suit horses that are wider and flatter across the back with lower withers, like heavily muscled Quarter Horses and stock-type horses.
See our Armazones de montura page for the specifics.
Signs the fit is right
Set the saddle on your horse without a pad and check:
- Withers clearance: with a rider in the saddle, you should be able to fit about two to three fingers between the withers and the gullet.
- Even contact: slide your hand under the front of the bars along each side. The pressure should feel even from front to back, without tight spots.
- No rocking: if the saddle rocks front to back, the bars may be too curved for a flat back.
- No bridging: if the bars touch at the front and back but leave a gap in the middle, the tree may be too straight for your horse’s back.
Signs something’s wrong
- Uneven sweat marks or dry spots under the saddle after a ride
- White hairs or sore spots along the back or withers
- A horse that pins its ears, swishes, or moves away when saddled or cinched
- A saddle that slides forward onto the shoulders or keeps rolling to one side
A good pad can help with a small mismatch, but it can’t fix a tree that’s the wrong shape. Stacking extra pads under a tight tree usually makes it tighter.
Horses change
A horse’s back changes with age, weight and condition. A horse coming off a winter turnout or a young horse still filling out may fit differently in a few months, so check fit again whenever your horse’s body changes.
Need help?
If you’re not sure whether your horse needs semi or full bars, email us at saddlegear@gmail.com. Photos of your horse from the side and from behind the withers, or a wither tracing made with a flexible curve, will help us point you to the right tree.